colesifer3d314

My Feedback: (9)

I do plan on removing the monokote and glassing the model just as you did. This will be the first model I do this to in its entirety and IMO the fit and finish is second to none in comparison.

I will be competing with this model once its done..it will probably be a few months before i get started on mine. I do plan on using the LADO electric gear door actuators as well with the electric retracts...we will see how they work on a large scale model.

that exhaust is sick..im going to have to steal that one  

Cole

MRadu

Cole,

I'm willing to make you one. Are you going with a DLE 55 with rear exhaust?

colesifer3d314

My Feedback: (9)

Iwill if you make me a muffler like that! haha..I have a couple of G-62s, butI do like the DLE much better. A friend of mine put a Bowman ring in one of the 55-RA engines and it has a ton of power in a big Jug.

MRadu

Cole

I'll make you one. I programmed it into a 3-axis milling machine.

Let me know and I'll give you a price.
How much do you think I should sale it for.

colesifer3d314

My Feedback: (9)

bringing this thread back to the top..

how did you attach the fillets in the elevator section?

Did you apply body filler to the entire model after fiberglass then sand down for a constant radius then prime? looks great!

Cole

rt3232

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Hi Cole

Question WHAT IS BOWMAN RING ?

Cheers Bob T

colesifer3d314

My Feedback: (9)

Frank Bowman makesrings for the gas engines..I just ordered one for all 3 of my DLE engines..very good investment..

also look into the reed block mod..which is basically making the surfaces of the reed block flat so that it seals and creates a better vac

Cole

MRadu

Cole,
To answer your question about my post of 197:
I glued the shaped balsa wood fillets to the fiberglass tail tip with CA. Then I used bondo filler to cover the balsa wood fillets.
I used my finger to shape the bondo that went into and between the fillet and the fuselage tail tip.
Does that answer your question?

I just had a thought. While I was trying to get that shape of the rudder I decided to take the scale drawings I have for my scale documentation of the outlines and enlarge them to the size of this Top Flite Corsair.

I have access to a large format printer and I made the print out. Then I realized that I could simply print the entire plane and this would give actual panel lines. All in the correct places without using one ruler!

I'll post photos soon.

colesifer3d314

My Feedback: (9)

Michael,
CA is all that is holding those on the tail with a little bondo? Have you used this method before?

I like that idea of the markings..sure will make things easier!

Cole

MRadu

Cole,
Yes CA only. I know what your thinking as I thought the same. I used a couple of drops for what I thought was going to be a light tack. When I tried to remove them I was forced to break the balsa just to remove them. So with only a couple of drops being that strong, covering the entire piece with thick CA the pieces will never come off.

So I tried to make full size prints from my scale outline (panel profiles see attached photos). I have made PDF’s for my Scale Masters Documentation (see photos 10 and 11). So if anyone wants me to email them, send me a PM and I’ll email them to you. However, take note. This showed me a lot of errors in the Top Flite Giant ARF Corsair.
Errors like the fuselage is to short in the mid section, the tip at the tail is way to long and has the incorrect shape and the cowl is to short in length. Also it really shows that my canopy frame is not scale. The cross bars on the top that makes it a F4U-1A are to high for the side profile. Oh well I’ll try to repair or be forced to make another one.

The full size prints did assist in general areas for panel lines, however, I found that a little smaller print out was better for drawing them onto the model. I used a pencil first and then a black Sharpie. I found out that the pencil was best and the Sharpie was not necessary.

I’ll continue on and try to make as many corrections as I can, however, there are some I simply can not over come. Their are areas out of my abilities and or should have been made at building time. Also I’m running out of time. I want to be complete before May. I hope!

MRadu

While I let the Bondo dry I started onto the cowl. I wanted to extend the center top section first. Then later I’ll open each of the cowl flaps just a little. After cutting out the the center section I used packing tape to hold into place while I fiber glassed into position, from the inside of the cowl.

MRadu

Having the full size print I can fully see the errors of the tail and rudder.
My trim tab is completely incorrect and I had to remake another. Photos 1 and 2 show this.
Thanks to WarbirdMan and showing us that the soft balsa wood that houses the pivot arm for rotation will result in time, a soft rudder and will for sure create that tail waddle called hunting in low fast fly-by’s. I really don’t like that look and I see it far to often.
Photos 3 through 11 show how I made and installed a hard block of wood. This turned out really well. As now it is a very solid connection and simply putting the rudder on requires much more pressure and feels so solid.

MRadu

For the top of the rudder I needed to create an antenna post. I used two pieces of hard wood glued together and shaped the tip. I then cut a slot into the top of the rudder.
After the glued dried, I used Bondo filler to shape the top of the ruder.

Next I saw how the full size Corsair rudder was made and got an idea of making side panels out of 1/64� ply. This shows that one rib is out of place. See photos 6, 8 and 9.

This did not turn out all that great. This will take some painting techniques to make better. Should it not, I’ll have to redo the rudder for the third time.

MRadu

Next I needed to install the fuel tank in order to evaluate the areas where the access hatch will go for the fuel, air and two charging switches. Also because I’m going to pratice a lot I wanted a larger fuel tank. I added a 40 oz. tank. This required me to enlarge the frame and add brace bars. The basswood bars in photos will support the tank and when I place cross bars I’ll be able to attach velcro straps to hold the tank in place.

MRadu

Now with the tank i place I can see the space to where I can make the access hatch.
At first, I wanted to place the fuel access to the top of the fuselage, however, the air tank is in that location. I was going to re-locate it and then said “enough is enough�. So I’ll make an access hatch with the fuel filler. Photos 1, 2 and 5 show my first attempt. This did not work as the hatch cover had no space. The next post shows more to the access hatch.

MRadu

After three failed attempts at the access panel this is what I came up with. It will still need some work at final touch up’s.

Photos 1 - 3 show a shaped wood piece that I mounted to the Robart door hinges and to the fuselage. I used 2-56 tapered screws and 2-56 lock nuts.
Then photo 4 - 11 show how I taped my extra piece of fiber glass to the outside. Then glued the wood with hinges to the fiber glass hatch cover.

MRadu

Once the glue was dry and fully cured. I had to make several coats of Bondo to raise the level of the fuselage to meet the hatch cover. After the Bondo dried I sanded smooth.
Photos 4 and 6 show the plywood panel and the two charging switches. In photo 4 you might have noticed an extra set of wires attached to one of the switches. That is for the telemetry of the battery level. The one without is for the receiver and the battery level is part of the receiver already. The second switch (for the ignition) needs to be added to a telemetry unit. This way I can know the battery levels of both batteries from my transmitter.
The plywood platform must be removable in order to get the fuel tank in and out. So I made and glued a support “L� shaped into the fuselage and the using servo screws mounted the platform to the supports.
At this point I noticed that I could easily reach the charging jacks and turn on and off the switches, however, the air and fuel filler valves at that angle was way to hard to reach.
So I then made an angle mount. See photos 7, 8 and 9.

Later I’ll show how I made this push button with magnet to hold the hatch closed and yet allow you to open it.

MRadu

Photos 1,2 and 3 show what the access hatch looks like with first coat of primer. I think the hatch will still require some more finishing touches before final paint.

Also note the red square button with a round earth magnet inside. This button I picked up at Radio Shack. This button is the kind that has a spring and has an up and down level for on and off. I drilled a small hole and installed the earth magnet. On the hatch I glued a piece of metal. When the button is in it’s down position the hatch is held closed. Then with some pressure on the hatch directly above the button, the button will rise up allowing enough gap to pull open with fingers.

Photos 4 through 7 show the the painted canopy. I used Semi Gloss Sea Blue (ANA 606) and then saw it looked way to dark. After doing more research I found that the top of the wings and elevators were panted with Semi Gloss Sea Blue (ANA606) and the fuselage (including the canopy) was Non Specular Sea Blue (ANA607) for top.
Intermediate Blue (ANA608) and Insignia White. Oh well I’ll have to re-paint. I still need to re-do the canopy frame.

Still not sure what “Pappy� Boyington’s plane I’m going to do. Number 720, 86 or 883. I’m leaning towards 883. I have found color renderings with and without red outlines around the star and bars. Looking at photos of Pappy in the plane I’m almost sure no red outline. I like adding the red color, however, if not there I will use it.

KNowAceHere

Outstanding!

I love reading you posts. You put so much time in this plane, you make me want to leave mine in the hanger[8D]

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

MRadu

Been following your thread from the start and what I have see realy looks Great.

Lot of good idea's for next time, Keep up the good work.

Cheers Bob T
AMA17733
Corsair brotherhood # 5

B-Squared

MRadu...Great job with your build. Looks like you're getting a lot accomplished. I'm getting ready to build some hatches on my Super Corsair so you're pictures helped. Hopefully I can only redo them 2 or 3 times instead of the usual 5...HA! Keep up the good work.

colesifer3d314

My Feedback: (9)

your really raising the bar for me bud! looks great.

Cole

MRadu

KNowAceHere,

Thank you for the appreciation. It is because of comments like yours that make me want to keep posting. I'm happy with the outcome so far. My plan is to finish in April of this year. What this means is that I'll have to pass on some features like having the canopy open. I still want to make a working drop tank. I laughed at your comment as I have come out to the field all proud only to see others who put me to shame! :-)

Thanks again,

Michael

MRadu

Bob T,

Thank you for following along and the kind words. Your Corsair is great! I'll bet you were finished and ready to fly much faster than I will be with this plane.
I'm thinking I should move off this thread and start my own. I'm starting feel that I have taken over Warbird Man's thread.

My only hope is that all these modifications don't hurt the performance. Any thought on this?

Thanks,

Michael

MRadu

B-Squared,

Thank you for your comment. My hatch on this Corsair is my first attempt. Please keep us up to date on you build on your Super Corsair. Or are you posting on another thread?
Yes doing things over and over again is frustrating! However, the more I do them the better I get. Most of my successes come from my fourth or fifth attempt. I sometimes need to stop and take a break so things don't get sloppy.