kmtranmd

My Feedback: (71)

What is the distance from prop washer to firewall for those using G62 and DLE 55 on the 1/5 GS Corsair ARF?
Please let us know.

Lormuhl

Thanks for the info Chris. I think I will stay with the 55ra.
Lorren

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

I assume you meant firewall to prop hub. On the G-62 I have mounted, It's about 7-3/8". But keep in mind these measurements that some are asking for are not set in stone as they will vary depending on type of engine, mounting setups, muffler types, how one glues in the mounting ring of the cowl and mounts the dummy engine in the cowl. I try to keep the prop hub and dummy engine sticking out of the cowl in a scale distance. I also have my cowl mounted alittle further out than the instructions show.

The real trick is to mount the cowl straight with the fuse and get the engine mounted so the hub is centered in the cowl with the required off sets.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Warbirdman, I suggest that you put safety wires on those muffler bolts. I could not keep this set up tight on my TF P40 until I added those wires. Mine was with DLE55 and J-tec, not G62

Nelson

kmtranmd

My Feedback: (71)

Thanks warbird man,
Where did you end up with the airborne 2 batteries with that mounting distance?

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

kmtranmd,
I'm not far enough in the build to determine where they will end up yet. They will probably end up somewhere behind the firewall depending on how the plane balances out.

swordson,
Very good suggestion.

kmtranmd

My Feedback: (71)

That wraparound muffler does not seem to hack up the cowl too much.
What is the make and model of that muffler?
This may save my buddy from having to do a custom exhaust system.

Warbird Man

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Jtec - Airplane specific muffler for the Top-flight 1/5th scale P-51. They make it for several engine types.

SWORDSN

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The cowl appears to fit tight against the nose. Is there enough air movement for cooling?

rt3232

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Hi guys

When I built my first T/f G/S Corsair I found that the cowl got realy warm and soft after about an 8 min flight so I cut the cowl flaps opened them about 10 deg's (held them in place with a shaped wire epoxied to the back side) cowel still get just warm to the tuch but not soft

also a lot depends on how big you make the opening for the stacks, if you are putting a dummy engone in the cowel. I found that getting as much cooling air across the head was best so I opened the areas between the dummy cyl's from 3 to 9 oclock and that seamed to be the best.

Hope this helps

Cheers Bob T

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

There is supposed to be about 1/8" clearance between the back of the cowl and the front of the fuse The rounded part will show. Lets air out.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Capt G

You are rite, But it was not enough in my case and that is why I opened the flaps

Cheers Bob T

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

It's hard to tell from the pics but my cowl doesn't touch the fuse. There is a gap around it for cooling. I might open the cowl flaps up abit before I complete the build.

bonanzadrv

My Feedback: (21)

Hello all

I have been working on two of these corsairs.. One for me and one for a friend. They will be stock except for making the tail gear longer and added main gear doors.....

How have you guys been doing the gear doors?? Any pics of anyone doing something other than air cyl.

The gear doors fit so well and are all hinged, I just have to have them work.

Both will have DLE 55's

Thanks for the help
Bill

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

I'm unable to take pics of my setup at this time, but I do have one from another build thread. This should give you the basic idea. A few ball links and threaded rod. Getting the geometry just right will be the trick.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

WM, could you post a larger pic please? It's hard to see. Thanks

SWORDSN

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I have the same problem... when I click to enlarge it just moves to the right and stays the same size. Anyone know why?

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

Sorry, don't know why it did that. It should magnify twice now. hit the blue box w/ arrows lower right hand corner after enlarging the first time around.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Works great now. I've noticed that same problem on other threads.

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

One thing to keep in mind if your going for scale, is that the tail wheel gear doors on the full scale splay out at almost 180 degrees when open as you can see from the pic.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

If anyone has the Robart 148 retracts from a crashed TF Giant Corsair please let me know

MRadu

Hello Warbird Man,

I too picked up the Top Flite Giant Corsair this month (Jan 2013). We think alike. Fokker D.VII's to Corsairs.

I started the ARF Corsair build and wanted just to build it as an everyday flyer. Build it stock. Then as I started with the tail wheel (how low the stock tail wheel was) I could not stop adding and detailing things. From my other thread you may understand that I like my aircrafts to look real. Well at least as real as I can make them.

Then I tore all the MonoKote off and started fiber glassing the entire plane.

So should I post some of my modifications to your thread or start another?

For my Corsair I choose the following:

Engine: DLE 55 With rear exhaust

Scale dash from www.iflytalies.com

Scale tail wheel with tail hook

I plan on using a canopy from Zirolli and I'm currently fiberglass the canopy to make the frame.
I might even make the canopy open. At least manually not on a servo.

Gear: using Robart main gear and Sierra Giant Scale wheels. I'm using air for the main gear and doors.

I also picked up a Pappy pilot from Best Pilots. Thinking about rigging head to rotate.

Let me know what you think?

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

Hello Micheal, Good to hear from you and welcome.
I started this thread to be a group build and modifications for all, so by all means post away. Looks like your going all out. I too wanted to strip and glass but just don't have the time. ( got too many planes in progress on the bench) If you put the skill and determination in the Corsair like you did with that D-VII, It will end up being one beautiful bird for sure
I've been away from this build for awhile as I'm still recovering from surgery. But I hope to be back at it soon.




To many planes to build, Not enough time.

3DFlight

Everyone, great ideas. Due to traveling I have not been able to finish mine, but close. I am using a DLE 55 with a Jtec muffler that I cut the stacks short. I grit blasted the muffler and painted it with high temp ceraminc header paint and then baked it per the can. Nice black satin finsih that does not stick out too bad. Also, using Robart electric retracts.

I have all the panel lines and rivet details, just waiting for a friend to paint my Pappy Boyington pilot. I finally got my tail gear doors to work well after much tinkering using a differnet spring than provided, although I like the ball link and rod method earlier in this post. Has anybody got ideas on actuating the main gear doors when using electric retracts? So far, I am using the old trick of a rubber band looped from door to door and some springs to hold the doors open.

Also, using a Troy Built 3 blade prop, have run the engine, but not flown yet. Seems like it will provide plenty of thrust. Hope the extra weight will reduce the amount of extra on the nose.

Thanks,

Rege

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

Looking good 3D, let us know how that three blade works out.