Top-Flite 1/5th F4U Corsair ARF Group Build and modification thread
#702
My Feedback: (1)
Thanks! There is a certain, undefinable moment when all the trimming, adjustments and engine settings come together and the plane becomes an extension of your will. Kind of a Zen thing. That's what happened today.
My friend also too a brief video of a downwind, high-speed pass. I'll post when available.
My friend also too a brief video of a downwind, high-speed pass. I'll post when available.
#708
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Just East of Cleveland Ohio
Posts: 51
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Hey can anyone recommend a good electric hand held starter with a cone small enough to fit this hub? My buddy had a big Dynatron, and it was so large that it could not grip well. Ended up starting it by hand, but don't want to do that again.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#710
My Feedback: (3)
@ DSA44
So close!
I don’t recall if you have flown one of these before but you will see pretty quickly what the Corsair will let you get away with and what it won’t.
For your maiden I highly recommend you add a little power over idle and let it accelerate to the point the tail has authority. Then start adding more power. If you add too much power while it’s rolling slowly it will loop on you or veer off. The rudder is too small to do anything until it has quite a bit of air speed. Then the rudder is all but useless above a certain speed. The rudder is most effective in the landing pattern and you really should use it to line up on center to land while keeping the wings level. If you use too much aileron things get sporty at slower speeds so use the rudder more than you use the ailerons to adjust the approach.
The flaps work! When you get there you might find a small flap elevator mix around 10%. Full flaps are very effective and can get you in trouble so you need to get used to the characteristics up high and do some stalls with full flap. On windy days you can easily use half or zero flap. With full flaps you might notice significantly reduced rudder and elevator effectiveness just after touchdown. It’s good to raise the flaps right away because they blank out the tail.
The Corsair is pretty docile if you understand what it likes to do. It has a pretty broad range of control at slow speeds especially. I had to abort a landing on a windy day and I got blown way off coarse. Low and slow and gusty all the wrong things came together! Added power kept it under control and narrowly avoided disaster but the plane never stalled or snapped out of shape. I was shocked, I thought for sure it was going in. I had a DLE 55RA in it at the time. I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t have had the same result with the Saito FG84, too heavy.
Anyway, I’m looking forward to your maiden flight video and success!
So close!
I don’t recall if you have flown one of these before but you will see pretty quickly what the Corsair will let you get away with and what it won’t.
For your maiden I highly recommend you add a little power over idle and let it accelerate to the point the tail has authority. Then start adding more power. If you add too much power while it’s rolling slowly it will loop on you or veer off. The rudder is too small to do anything until it has quite a bit of air speed. Then the rudder is all but useless above a certain speed. The rudder is most effective in the landing pattern and you really should use it to line up on center to land while keeping the wings level. If you use too much aileron things get sporty at slower speeds so use the rudder more than you use the ailerons to adjust the approach.
The flaps work! When you get there you might find a small flap elevator mix around 10%. Full flaps are very effective and can get you in trouble so you need to get used to the characteristics up high and do some stalls with full flap. On windy days you can easily use half or zero flap. With full flaps you might notice significantly reduced rudder and elevator effectiveness just after touchdown. It’s good to raise the flaps right away because they blank out the tail.
The Corsair is pretty docile if you understand what it likes to do. It has a pretty broad range of control at slow speeds especially. I had to abort a landing on a windy day and I got blown way off coarse. Low and slow and gusty all the wrong things came together! Added power kept it under control and narrowly avoided disaster but the plane never stalled or snapped out of shape. I was shocked, I thought for sure it was going in. I had a DLE 55RA in it at the time. I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t have had the same result with the Saito FG84, too heavy.
Anyway, I’m looking forward to your maiden flight video and success!
#711
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Just East of Cleveland Ohio
Posts: 51
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Thanks Chris for the advice! Probably won't be until spring now. I have a world-class gas guy who has flown one before at my club who will be happy to do the maiden. My other large warbirds are 30cc electric, so I welcome the advice and additional thumbs.
Going to play with the main gear doors this winter if I can.
I will update as soon as she is airborne!
Going to play with the main gear doors this winter if I can.
I will update as soon as she is airborne!
#712
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Just East of Cleveland Ohio
Posts: 51
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Oh and another small thing I need to replace is the 3" spring for the tail wheel doors. Anyone know the diameter, or where I could even find something similar? Looked at mcmaster-carr, but the smallest OD I saw was 1/4" which seems kinda thick.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#716
My Feedback: (3)
I really like how the plane flies when balanced on the front aluminum wing spar.
Set up: tank empty, gear down, horizontal stab level and the plane is right side up.
I used steel fishing leader line and made a loop for each side and suspended the plane from the spar. You can also do this with a metal blade from underneath or whatever works best for you.
Ive done this while running three different engines and the plane handles very well in all respects from heavy to light flying weights.
Engines: DLE 55RA, DLE 61, Saito FG84