Jp electric landing gear????
#26
My Feedback: (25)
My particular motor settings on my T-1's LGC 15 are currently:
Nose = .7 Amps
Mains = .7 Amps
Max Time = 10
Unload T = .15
I started out at .5 amps on the bench and worked my way up a couple tenths to make sure they go up when flying. So, … I figure my settings are about as low as they can go. It should be noted that I have the Castle voltage regulator set at 7.0 VDC. This runs the gear a little slower than 7.5. I was playing around with this setting this past summer to slow the gear down a bit. But, I am going to set it back to 7.5 again because at 7.0, occasionally a main does not go all the way up. The operator probably needs a bit of cleaning too. I have not taken it apart since the folks a Joe Nall decided to cut the wet grass while we were flying. The whole underside of the plane was a mess after that. Lesson learned!
Nose = .7 Amps
Mains = .7 Amps
Max Time = 10
Unload T = .15
I started out at .5 amps on the bench and worked my way up a couple tenths to make sure they go up when flying. So, … I figure my settings are about as low as they can go. It should be noted that I have the Castle voltage regulator set at 7.0 VDC. This runs the gear a little slower than 7.5. I was playing around with this setting this past summer to slow the gear down a bit. But, I am going to set it back to 7.5 again because at 7.0, occasionally a main does not go all the way up. The operator probably needs a bit of cleaning too. I have not taken it apart since the folks a Joe Nall decided to cut the wet grass while we were flying. The whole underside of the plane was a mess after that. Lesson learned!
#27
My UF has pro-link gear. There is no need for the voltage regulator as the pro-link will take the 2S LiPos that I use. I'd have to power the UF to find out it's settings. But if you looking at JPes then you should be good to go.
#32
Thanks Bodywerks. I guess my question stems from the fact the 2S LiPo is 7.4v and 2S Li Lon is 7.2v. Jp Retracts say 2S LiPo. I understand that fully charged both these packs will be in excess of 8v. So it will probably be OK.
#37
My Feedback: (4)
I think you're confusing A123/LiFe with li-ion. And technicaly, most li-ions are considered fully charged at 4.1v/cell, but it's OK to charge them at 4.2v/cell. Still, worse case scenario, a 2s li-ion will have a nominal voltage of 7.2v, NOT 6.6v.
Last edited by bodywerks; 06-07-2020 at 02:00 AM.
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jamessymons (06-07-2020)
#38
Your right. I didn't think anyone used Li-ion for receiver packs and had LiFe on the brain. But Li-ion still charge to 4.2 just like lipos do. The 3.6 or 3.7 rating is just the voltage under load rating they gave them but both batteries hold the same voltage under load in a low amp situation like as receiver packs. So as receiver packs they will hold the same voltage so one isn't different from the other in that regard.
Last edited by MarkF; 06-07-2020 at 09:16 AM.
#40
I think you will find that as any brand of gear wears, gets roughed up a bit and/or gets dirty, you may need to bump up the current limiter settings. I know I have bumped both mine up twice since I initially set them using the ammeter and just adding up a couple extra units. I also ended up increasing the voltage to speed things up a bit. If I recall correctly, I started at 7.0 VDC and I am at 7.5 VDC on both of them now. My JPs and Prolinks both handle 7.5 VDC just fine.
Just to clarify things: If you buy a LGC15 with a set of gear, the current limits are typically preset and not changeable w/o loading a new program that you can get from Gaspar. However, I suspect that you will have to restart over all the programming. You can get unlocked LGC15s from PacificRC, and I assume from other retailers that do NOT sell them as part of a gear package.
Also, it does take a little time to program one. Best to tinker on the bench with the gear and controller. Do NOT dive the gear directly with a battery (i.e. w/o a control inbetween) as there is no way to prevent current overload and resulting damage.
The SD card is a real timesaver for #2 & #3, etc.
Just to clarify things: If you buy a LGC15 with a set of gear, the current limits are typically preset and not changeable w/o loading a new program that you can get from Gaspar. However, I suspect that you will have to restart over all the programming. You can get unlocked LGC15s from PacificRC, and I assume from other retailers that do NOT sell them as part of a gear package.
Also, it does take a little time to program one. Best to tinker on the bench with the gear and controller. Do NOT dive the gear directly with a battery (i.e. w/o a control inbetween) as there is no way to prevent current overload and resulting damage.
The SD card is a real timesaver for #2 & #3, etc.
Last edited by Len Todd; 06-07-2020 at 09:46 AM.
#41
My Feedback: (4)
Your right. I didn't think anyone used Li-ion for receiver packs and had LiFe on the brain. But Li-ion still charge to 4.2 just like lipos do. The 3.6 or 3.7 rating is just the voltage under load rating they gave them but both batteries hold the same voltage under load in a low amp situation like as receiver packs. So as receiver packs they will hold the same voltage so one isn't different from the other in that regard.
Last edited by bodywerks; 06-07-2020 at 08:13 PM.
#42
My Feedback: (4)
For reference guys, these are the packs I want to use. https://www.espritmodel.com/jeti-rec...-power-rb.aspx
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jamessymons (06-07-2020)