Tony Nijhuis Vulcan bomber
#127
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: CANTON, MI
Posts: 42
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Dave,
thank you for the information.
i already had the Vulcan glassed befor l saw you were cutting off the nose,hacked up the
nose..the rest of the airplane is. Finished ready for paint
thanks again
james smith
thank you for the information.
i already had the Vulcan glassed befor l saw you were cutting off the nose,hacked up the
nose..the rest of the airplane is. Finished ready for paint
thanks again
james smith
#129
Hi Greg,
My wings were were built with a maximum throw as shown on the plan, inner elevators 30mm at the fuselage, Outer elevons 20mm at the wing tip and Rudder 25mm at the bottom. Dave Wilshire reduced the throws a little and the model flew fine. Unfortunately the guesstimated throws were not measured and after installing the gyro and sorting out the directions and travel, the settings were lost so will have to be guesstimated again! Will take note after the next flights.
Looking good in white! I would like to see some details about the thrust tube.
good luck with the maiden flight when it comes.
Cheers Dave
My wings were were built with a maximum throw as shown on the plan, inner elevators 30mm at the fuselage, Outer elevons 20mm at the wing tip and Rudder 25mm at the bottom. Dave Wilshire reduced the throws a little and the model flew fine. Unfortunately the guesstimated throws were not measured and after installing the gyro and sorting out the directions and travel, the settings were lost so will have to be guesstimated again! Will take note after the next flights.
Looking good in white! I would like to see some details about the thrust tube.
good luck with the maiden flight when it comes.
Cheers Dave
#132
All,
The inboard surfaces are supposed to be elevators only with the outers being elevons but this proved to be awkward with the gyro so in the end i opted for a normal delta setup with full elevons. Flies beautifully with this setup.
All the best
Dave
The inboard surfaces are supposed to be elevators only with the outers being elevons but this proved to be awkward with the gyro so in the end i opted for a normal delta setup with full elevons. Flies beautifully with this setup.
All the best
Dave
#135
John,
I looked at a TN set and made my own loosely based on his. The springing of the bogy is the main difference as the mains HAVE to positively push down when hanging which translates into pushing up when retracted. I would seriously recommend NOT simply using a mini servo for the nose leg steering as designed. There are lots of pics already uploaded i think but if you need more info then don't hesitate to ask.
cheers
Dave
I looked at a TN set and made my own loosely based on his. The springing of the bogy is the main difference as the mains HAVE to positively push down when hanging which translates into pushing up when retracted. I would seriously recommend NOT simply using a mini servo for the nose leg steering as designed. There are lots of pics already uploaded i think but if you need more info then don't hesitate to ask.
cheers
Dave
#141
Hi Capt G,
She is certainly a beautiful model and a credit to you. Mine flies so nicely it is a big ***** cat with a P100. Are you using a gyro? how does she handle?
Had several flights last year and hoping for lots more this year.
cheers
Dave
She is certainly a beautiful model and a credit to you. Mine flies so nicely it is a big ***** cat with a P100. Are you using a gyro? how does she handle?
Had several flights last year and hoping for lots more this year.
cheers
Dave
#145
Junior Member
Hi All
I am just about to start my 98" Vulcan build ( its my Lockdown build !) ...the parts should be arriving today
I have found this forum to be extremely useful and gives me some great pointers ..so I thank you all for that .
Mine will be powered by a wren 80 Jubilee and I will probably incorporate some of the mods mentioned here .
The main issue I have is the main undercarriage.
I have some Electron 40's for the retracts so no probs there . I want braking so I will probably have to go with nose wheel brakes ..the minimum size for electron braked wheels is 65mm so I might have to go for some other type (?)
The main gear struts and bogie are my area of concern ….is it relatively simple to build your own ? and , if so, could I have some advice/help please ? ( I am no metalworker or engineer so needs to be simple ! ) . Could I just simply make a bogie out of a piece of hollow aluminium bar and drill through for the axles and attach the oleo leg in a similar manner from the top ..forward of the Cof G of the bogie so that the back wheels simply just hang when deployed? ...or would that just lead to the back wheels flicking up on landing?..hmmm
Any help or advice would be appreciated
Thanks
Richard
I am just about to start my 98" Vulcan build ( its my Lockdown build !) ...the parts should be arriving today
I have found this forum to be extremely useful and gives me some great pointers ..so I thank you all for that .
Mine will be powered by a wren 80 Jubilee and I will probably incorporate some of the mods mentioned here .
The main issue I have is the main undercarriage.
I have some Electron 40's for the retracts so no probs there . I want braking so I will probably have to go with nose wheel brakes ..the minimum size for electron braked wheels is 65mm so I might have to go for some other type (?)
The main gear struts and bogie are my area of concern ….is it relatively simple to build your own ? and , if so, could I have some advice/help please ? ( I am no metalworker or engineer so needs to be simple ! ) . Could I just simply make a bogie out of a piece of hollow aluminium bar and drill through for the axles and attach the oleo leg in a similar manner from the top ..forward of the Cof G of the bogie so that the back wheels simply just hang when deployed? ...or would that just lead to the back wheels flicking up on landing?..hmmm
Any help or advice would be appreciated
Thanks
Richard
Last edited by BashaBolla; 03-25-2020 at 01:06 AM. Reason: spelling mistake
#146
Hi Richard,
Glad to see another Vulcan hitting the building board. a build like this is great for a lockdown, lots to do. What I failed to realise at first sight was that the bogies need to remain in the hanging position (pushed down) because when the legs are retracted the force pushing them down will be holding the bogie up. for this reason, the springs have to be quite stiff. when you touch down, the nose will be high and the main legs are likely to fully compress so if the bogie spring is anchored on the top of the OLEO as in the TN ones, it has to be capable of all the bogy travel from hanging down at the back to fully up at the back plus all the OLEO travel. When the spring is extended, it has to be exerting sufficient force to hold the bogie up which is quite considerable. if the spring is too weak at this point, in a hi G manoeuvre, the bogie will try and punch out through the gear doors as its only the spring holding it up. Effectively the main gear each side is a twin wheel on the bottom of the OLEO, with the trailing bogie simply there to look good, very little weight is actually carried on the rear wheels. The bogie itself needs to pivot on the front axle as can be seen here. The only commercial option is to buy the set that TN sells, otherwise it does require some engineering. As for brakes, mine are air brakes and i have no idea about a smaller set than those you have found.
You are a long way from needing the bogies so lots of time to think about it. You could even test fly it on twin wheels for the mains without the bogies but the sight of a landing approach with the bogies hanging is well worth the effort involved!
Have a think about it and holler if you need help.
cheers
Dave
Glad to see another Vulcan hitting the building board. a build like this is great for a lockdown, lots to do. What I failed to realise at first sight was that the bogies need to remain in the hanging position (pushed down) because when the legs are retracted the force pushing them down will be holding the bogie up. for this reason, the springs have to be quite stiff. when you touch down, the nose will be high and the main legs are likely to fully compress so if the bogie spring is anchored on the top of the OLEO as in the TN ones, it has to be capable of all the bogy travel from hanging down at the back to fully up at the back plus all the OLEO travel. When the spring is extended, it has to be exerting sufficient force to hold the bogie up which is quite considerable. if the spring is too weak at this point, in a hi G manoeuvre, the bogie will try and punch out through the gear doors as its only the spring holding it up. Effectively the main gear each side is a twin wheel on the bottom of the OLEO, with the trailing bogie simply there to look good, very little weight is actually carried on the rear wheels. The bogie itself needs to pivot on the front axle as can be seen here. The only commercial option is to buy the set that TN sells, otherwise it does require some engineering. As for brakes, mine are air brakes and i have no idea about a smaller set than those you have found.
You are a long way from needing the bogies so lots of time to think about it. You could even test fly it on twin wheels for the mains without the bogies but the sight of a landing approach with the bogies hanging is well worth the effort involved!
Have a think about it and holler if you need help.
cheers
Dave